



BlackHeart LS Swap Long Tube Headers | Hook Performance Exhaust
Our BlackHeart long tube headers are purpose-built for LS engine swaps into classic GM A-body, F-body, and X-body chassis. We engineered these headers to unlock maximum exhaust flow while clearing factory steering, motor mounts, and floor pans—no cutting, no compromises.
Each tube is mandrel-bent from 16-gauge 304 stainless steel, maintaining constant internal diameter through every curve for unrestricted scavenging. 1⅞-inch primary tubes merge into a 3-inch collector, optimized for street builds making 400–600 horsepower. Laser-cut flanges and CNC-formed bends ensure leak-free sealing and precise fitment every time.
We built BlackHeart headers for the enthusiast who demands power and durability. Whether you're running a mild 5.3L truck motor or a built 6.2L stroker, our long tube design pulls heat away from the block, drops EGTs, and delivers that deep V8 tone you've been chasing.
Key specs & benefits

Mandrel-bent tubing & precision welding
Every Hooker BlackHeart long tube header starts with mandrel-bent 304 stainless steel primary tubes. Unlike crush-bent designs that pinch and restrict flow at every bend, our mandrel process maintains a constant 1⅞-inch inside diameter from flange to collector. That consistency matters: smoother bends mean less turbulence, faster exhaust velocity, and stronger scavenging pulses that pull spent gases out of the cylinder during valve overlap.
We TIG-weld each joint for full penetration and zero porosity. Laser-cut flanges mate flush to LS cylinder heads without gasket blowout or warping under heat cycling. The collectors are slip-fit on most applications, allowing you to clock your mid-pipes or X-pipe for chassis clearance before final tightening. For racers running open headers, we offer bolt-on collector caps that seal tight and won’t rattle loose at the strip.

LS swap fitment—no cutting required
We designed these headers specifically for popular LS swaps into 1964–1972 A-body, 1967–1981 F-body, and 1968–1979 X-body GM platforms. Our engineering team test-fitted every prototype on real chassis jigs with factory steering boxes, OEM motor mounts, and stock transmission crossmembers in place. The result: headers that bolt in without trimming floor pans, relocating steering shafts, or custom fabricating mounts.
Primary tubes route cleanly around stock steering components and factory brake lines. Collectors exit below the frame rails, giving you a straight shot to mid-pipes or full exhaust systems. If you’re running aftermarket engine mounts or a crossmember kit, confirm your specific application—we offer tech support to verify fitment before you order.
Power gains & dyno-proven performance
Independent dyno testing shows BlackHeart long tube headers deliver 18–32 rear-wheel horsepower over factory LS truck manifolds on street builds between 400 and 550 horsepower. Peak torque gains average 22–28 lb-ft, with the largest improvements occurring between 3,800 and 5,200 RPM—right where you’re accelerating hard on the street or launching at the strip.
The secret is exhaust velocity. Longer primary tubes create stronger scavenging pulses that help draw fresh air-fuel charge into the cylinder during valve overlap. That overlap period is critical on performance camshafts with more than 220 degrees of duration at 0.050-inch lift. If you’re running a mild street cam, you’ll still see gains, but the real magic happens when you pair these headers with a cam designed to exploit extended exhaust tuning.



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BlackHeart long tube header installation & fitment questions
Most aftermarket LS swap mounts position the engine within a half-inch of factory LS truck locations, so fitment is typically fine. However, some fabricated mounts or custom crossmembers shift the engine forward or rotate it slightly, which can affect primary tube routing.
We recommend measuring your engine position relative to the factory frame mounts and comparing it to OEM LS truck dimensions. If you're using a popular swap kit from a known manufacturer, our tech team can confirm compatibility before you order. Provide your chassis year, engine mount brand, and any suspension modifications for the most accurate fitment advice.
If you're running a factory LS ECU with oxygen sensors, the computer will adapt to the improved flow within a few drive cycles. You don't need an immediate custom tune for the headers to work, but a professional dyno tune will maximize power gains and ensure your air-fuel ratio stays safe under load.
Long tube headers reduce backpressure, which can lean out the mixture slightly at wide-open throttle. Most street engines tolerate this fine, but forced-induction builds and high-compression naturally aspirated motors benefit from a tune to dial in timing and fuel maps. If you're running a standalone ECU or carbureted setup, headers won't require any tuning changes beyond normal jetting or map adjustments for improved airflow.
You can bolt BlackHeart headers to factory exhaust if your stock system uses a 3-inch flange or slip-fit connection at the catalytic converter. Most LS swaps replace the entire exhaust anyway because factory routing doesn't fit classic chassis, but if you've already custom-fitted a cat-back system, these headers will mate to any 3-inch collector.
Keep in mind that pairing long tube headers with a restrictive stock exhaust or small-diameter pipes will limit your power gains. You'll still see improvements over manifolds, but a full 3-inch exhaust system unleashes the headers' full potential. We offer complete exhaust kits designed specifically for these headers if you're planning a full system upgrade.
On factory ride height, the collectors sit approximately 5 inches below the frame rail. If you lower your suspension 2 inches, you'll end up with around 3 inches of ground clearance at the lowest point.
That's marginal for street driving—you'll scrape on steep driveway approaches and larger speed bumps. Some builders solve this by switching to mid-length headers or fabricating a custom exhaust hump to raise the collectors. Measure your current exhaust's lowest point and compare it to the 5-inch baseline before ordering. If you're running coilovers or air suspension, consider your lowest practical ride height, not just the parked height.
The 1ⅾ-inch primaries on BlackHeart long tube headers are optimized for street engines making 400–600 horsepower. That tube diameter provides excellent exhaust velocity for strong low-end and midrange torque while still supporting peak power above 6,000 RPM.
If you're building a dedicated race motor making over 650 horsepower with a camshaft over 240 degrees of duration, you may benefit from stepping up to 1⅞-inch or 2-inch primaries for maximum top-end flow. For street-driven LS swaps—even aggressive ones—the 1⅞-inch tubes deliver the best all-around performance without sacrificing throttle response or torque below 4,000 RPM.
Yes. We back every set of BlackHeart long tube headers with a limited lifetime warranty against defects in materials and workmanship. If a tube cracks, a flange warps, or a weld fails due to manufacturing defect, we'll replace the headers at no charge.
The warranty does not cover damage from improper installation, contact with road debris, or modifications made after purchase. Normal discoloration and patina from heat cycling are expected and not considered defects. If you experience any issues, contact our tech support team with photos and your original order number for warranty evaluation.
You can have any professional coating shop apply ceramic coating to bare stainless headers, but we recommend ordering the optional factory ceramic coating if you want a warrantied finish. Our coating process includes media blasting, chemical etching, and a two-stage high-temperature ceramic application that bonds to the stainless surface.
DIY ceramic coating kits and spray-on products don't offer the same durability or heat resistance as professionally applied coatings. If you're planning to coat the headers yourself, make sure the shop has experience with stainless steel—some coatings designed for mild steel don't adhere well to 304 stainless without proper surface prep.




